This little piggy went to the market… the craft market, that is!
Okay, not really. I haven’t done a craft market in years. But if I were to do one, I would absolutely add this little piggy to my inventory, right alongside the teddy bear, the panda, and the highland cow.
Isn’t he so sweet-looking?
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And now, on to the pattern…
AMIGURUMI PIG
Difficulty: Easyish
Crochet Language: American Standard
Finished Size: 12″ tall
Yarn: #5 (bulky) velvet or chenille yarn recommended. The approximate amounts needed are:
- COLOR A (main) – I used Big Twist Baby Bear in “Strawberry Smoothie”: 250 yds
- COLOR B (snout + bottom of feet) – I used Juice Couture Luxe Velour in “Pink Diamond”: 20 yds
You’ll also need a very small amount of thinner black yarn and white yarn for embroidering the eyes.
Hook: 4.0mm (G) hook
Gauge: 18 CSC x 20 rows = 4″ square
You’ll also need:
Yarn needle (long)
Polyester Fiber-Fill
Terms and Abbreviations:
- ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
- CH/CHS (chain/chains)
- SL ST (slip stitch)
- CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert your hook, yarn UNDER, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops.)
- BLO (back loop only)
- FLO (front loop only)
- INC (2 CSC in same ST)
- DEC (Insert hook into FLO of ST, then immediately insert it into the FLO of the next ST as well; yarn UNDER, draw yarn through stitch (2 loops on hook), yarn over, draw through both loops.)
Notes:
(1) CHANGING COLORS: In the stitch before a color change, complete the final step of the stitch with the new color; so you’ll work the stitch right before the change, and when it’s time to pull through the final loops, you’ll drop the first color and pull through with the new color.
(2) When pattern instructs with a number followed by a stitch
(ex: “5 CSC”), it means to work one CSC in each of the next 5 stitches (not to work 5 CSC in one stitch).
(3) Repeats are represented in (parentheses). Make sure you complete everything in the parentheses before repeating it. For example:
“(CSC, INC, CSC) 3 times”
means
CSC, INC, CSC | CSC, INC, CSC | CSC, INC, CSC
(4) Yarn, hook size and gauge are only meant as a guide, and this pattern will work with any yarn you choose; just use a hook that is smaller than the yarn’s recommended size for a nice tight fabric, and keep in mind your yarn amounts and finished dimensions will be affected by any changes.
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INSTRUCTIONS
ARMS (make 2)
To Begin: With COLOR A, CH6.
Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, INC, 3 CSC, INC. Working around the chain* to the other side: INC, 3 CSC, INC. (14)
Round 2: INC, 5 CSC, INC, INC, 5CSC, INC. (18)
Rounds 3-8: CSC in each ST around. (18)
Round 9: DEC, 16 CSC. (17)
Round 10: DEC, 15 CSC. (16)
Round 11: DEC, 14 CSC. (15)
Round 12: DEC, 13 CSC. (14)
Round 13: DEC, 12 CSC. (13)
Round 14: DEC, 11 CSC. (12)
Round 15: DEC, 10 CSC. (11)
Round 16: DEC, 9 CSC. (10)
To finish: Stuff lightly, then CSC closed by holding sides of opening together and working through both sets of corresponding loops across. (4 or 5 CSC, depending on the number you decide fits best; just be consistent with both arms.) Fasten off and hide ends inside. Set arms aside for later.
Fasten off and hide ends inside. Set arms aside for later.
LEGS (make 2)
To begin: With COLOR B, make a Magic Circle; CH1.
Round 1: 7 CSC in MC. (7)
Round 2: INC in each ST around. (14)
Round 3: (INC, CSC) around. (21)
Round 4: (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (28)
Switch to COLOR A. Fasten off COLOR B.
Round 5: With a loose tension, SL ST in BLO of each ST around. (28)
Round 6: In BLO, (3 CSC, INC, 3 CSC) around. (32)
Rounds 7-8: CSC in each ST around. (32)
Round 9: (3 CSC, DEC, 3 CSC) around. (28)
Round 10: 10 CSC, 4 DEC, 10 CSC. (24)
Round 11: 8 CSC, 4 DEC, 8 CSC. (20)
Rounds 12-22: CSC in each ST around. (20)
Fasten off. Add stuffing. (I stuff the bottom part of the leg quite densely, then lightly stuff the skinnier part and leave about 1/2” at the top competely unstuffed. This helps the legs stay flexible.)
Continue on to BODY.
BODY
To Begin: Place legs side by side, fronts facing away from you. On the inner sides that sit closest together, locate the centermost stitch on each leg. With COLOR A, join legs together by joining yarn through top loops of BOTH opposing stitches; CH1.
Round 1: CSC in same ST as your CH1 on the left leg, and moving clockwise, CSC in each remain- ing ST around left leg (20 CSC). Continue to the right leg, and CSC again in the same ST as your initial CH1; continue to CSC in each ST around the right leg (20 CSC). (40)
NOTE: When you come to the part on each leg that has the “dropoff” created by the end of the final round, simply CSC until the dropoff and continue immediately to the next unworked stitch after it. (Pretend the dropoff isn’t even there.)
(Photos show technique in a different yarn.)
Round 2: In FLO for this round only, (INC, 3 CSC) around. (50)
Rounds 3-11: CSC in each ST around. (50)
Round 12: (4 CSC, DEC, 4 CSC) around. (45)
Round 13: CSC in each ST around. (45)
Round 14: (DEC, 7 CSC) around. (40)
Round 15: CSC in each ST around. (40)
Round 16: (3 CSC, DEC, 3 CSC) around. (35)
Round 17: CSC in each ST around. (35)
Round 18: (DEC, 5 CSC) around. (30)
Along Round 18, use stitch markers to mark 4 or 5 STS for each arm (depending on how many STS you used to seam the arms).
Round 19: CSC in each ST around, attaching arms as you go by inserting hook into corresponding ST on arm AND body. (30)
Round 20: (DEC, 3 CSC) around. (24)
Stuff as desired. Continue on to “HEAD”.
HEAD
Continuing from Round 20 (BODY),
Round 21: In FLO for this round only, (CSC, INC, CSC) around. (32)
Round 22: (INC, 3 CSC) around. (40)
Round 23: (2 CSC, INC, 2 CSC) around. (48)
Round 24: (INC, 11 CSC) around. (52)
Round 25-35: CSC in each ST around. (52)
Round 36: (DEC, 11 CSC) around. (48)
Round 37: (2 CSC, DEC, 2 CSC) around. (40)
Round 38: (DEC, 3 CSC) around. (32)
Round 39: (CSC, DEC, CSC) around. (24)
Stuff here, and continue to add stuffing as desired until you close it up.
Round 40: (DEC, CSC) around. (16)
Round 41: DEC around. (8)
To finish: Fasten off with a long tail. Thread tail through a yarn needle and weave the needle in and out of the outer loops of the previous round, all the way around. Slowly pull circle closed. (Be careful if you’re using single-ply yarn, it breaks easily!)
Tie a knot, then hide knot and tail inside head.
SNOUT
To Begin: With COLOR B, CH4.
Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, INC, CSC, INC. Working around to the other side of the CH, and working in the unworked loops of each chain stitch, INC, CSC, INC. (10)
Round 2: 2 INC, CSC, 4 INC, CSC, 2 INC. (18)
Round 3: INC, CSC, INC, 2 CSC, (INC, CSC) 4 times, CSC, INC, CSC, INC, CSC. (26)
Switch to COLOR A; fasten off COLOR B.
Round 4: With a looser tension, SL ST in each ST around. (26)
Rounds 5-6: CSC in each ST around. (26)
To finish: SL ST in next ST. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Secure starting tail.
ATTACHING THE SNOUT
Use finishing tail to sew snout to head, stuffing as desired. Secure and hide end inside. The snout should cover the first 10 rounds of the head. Don’t go higher, or you’ll run into the area we’ll be adding the eyes.
EARS (make 2)
To Begin: With COLOR A, CH9.
Round 1: Starting in 2nd CH from hook, and working into only the back loop of each chain stitch, 8 CSC. Working around the chain to the other side, CSC in each unworked loop from the first 8 chains. (16)
Round 2: INC, 6 CSC, 2 INC, 6 CSC, INC. (20)
Rounds 3-5: CSC in each ST around. (20)
Round 6: DEC, 6 CSC, 2 DEC, 6 CSC, DEC. (16)
Round 7: DEC, 4 CSC, 2 DEC, 4 CSC, DEC. (12)
Round 8: CSC in each ST around. (12)
Round 9: (DEC, CSC) around. (8)
Round 10: DEC in each ST around. (4)
Fasten off. Thread tail through yarn needle and run needle across top of ear to close any visible hole; tie a knot and hide knot and tail inside ear.
ATTACHING THE EARS
Cut a long length of COLOR A. Using your yarn needle, enter through a stitch on the back of the head and sew ear in place. Exit through the same stitch you first entered on the back of the head. Tie a knot with the tails and hide knot and tails inside head.
(I attached my ears halfway back on the head, starting about 6 rounds down from the top center of the head.)
EMBROIDERING THE FACE
EMBROIDERING THE SNOUT
With a long length of thinner black yarn, enter through a stitch on the back of the head and draw two small lines on the snout. (Mine start at the center horizontal line of the snout and end one round higher, and are two stitches apart.) Exit through the same stitch you first entered on the back of the head. Tie a knot with the tails and hide knot and tails inside head.
EMBROIDERING THE EYES + EYEBROWS
PLACEMENT
The eyes should start between Rounds 30 and 31 (10 and 11 if you’re counting up from the neck crease), and be 3 rounds tall, ending between Rounds 33 and 34 (or 13 and 14). They are 7 stitches apart.
BLACK YARN
Coming from the back of the head, start at the bottom and “draw” a line to the top (see “Placement” above for help with location). Come back out at the bottom.
Repeat, using your finger to guide the new strand just to the right of the previous one.
Repeat, using your finger to guide the new strand just to the left of the current strands.
Continue to build out on each side until you are happy with the shape of the eye. Add an eyebrow, and exit through the same stitch you first entered on the back of the head.
WHITE YARN
Coming from the back of the head, draw a white line along the outer edge of the eye, from the top of the eye to the bottom. If it slips under the black yarn or isn’t prominent enough, repeat as needed.
Starting back at the top of the eye, draw a white line going into the eye the height of one row. Repeat so there are two white strands side-by-side. Exit through the same stitch you first entered on the back of the head.
Repeat all steps for both eyes.
When finished, be sure to secure each color at the back of the head and hide the ends inside it.
SHAPING THE FACE
Cut a long length of yarn (COLOR A) and thread it through a long yarn needle, then follow these steps carefully, using the picture as a guide.
- Insert needle at the base of the neck (1), and pull it out at the lower right part of the first eye (2).
- Insert it into the lower left part of the same eye (3), and pull it out of the same spot at the base of the neck where you first inserted it (1).
- Move one stitch to the right (4) and insert needle, then pull it out at the lower left part of the 2nd eye (5).
- Insert it into the lower right part of the same eye (6), and pull it out of the same spot at the base of the neck where you most recently inserted it (4).
You should now have two ends coming out of the base of the neck. Gently pull them (at the same time) until you are happy with the indentation of the eyes, then tie them in a knot and hide the knot inside the head.
TAIL
To Begin: With COLOR A, CH9.
Row 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook. INC in each of the next 3 chains. 3 CSC in each of the remaining 4 chains. (19)
To Finish: Fasten off, leaving a long finishing tail. Weave in starting tail.
ATTACHING THE TAIL
Use long finishing tail to sew tail to back of pig, about 5 rounds above the leg crease. (I sewed down the first 5 stitches at the base of the tail and left the rest loose.) Secure and hide end inside.
You’re done!
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