This pattern is part of the Yarn + Chai Spring 2023 Crochet-Along.
It’s that time of year when I’ve fully recovered from the craziness of the fall/winter crochet season, and I’m itching to get back to work on new ideas. And with spring in the air, it’s the perfect time to break out the cotton yarn and make some new kitchen items!
The Striped Potholder is part of a matching set of three cute + modern kitchen accessories, which are all available as part of my Spring 2023 Crochet-Along. Here is where you’ll be able to find the links for each project:
- Striped Potholder: You are here!
- Striped Oven Mitt: Available Friday, April 28 2023
- Striped Towel Holder: Available Wednesday, May 3 2023
About the Yarn
Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton has definitely become my go-to cotton. It’s affordable and soft, and there are lots of colors available! But there are several other cottons to choose from when crocheting kitchen items. Here are a few other options you could use:
- K + C Essential Cotton (available at Joann Fabrics)
- Lily Sugar ‘n Cream
- Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton
- Yarn Bee Fundamental Cotton (available at Hobby Lobby)
Whatever you pick, make sure it’s a 100% cotton yarn. Other fibers like wool and acrylic will melt if they get too hot… and what a mess that would be!
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Striped Potholder
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Difficulty: Easy
Crochet Language: American Standard
Finished Size: 7.25″ x 7.25″ square
Yarn: I used Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Cotton, but you can use your favorite #4 weight kitchen cotton. You’ll need approximately 135 yards of BASE COLOR (I used “Parchment” and “Dove” in my samples), and 25 yards of STRIPE COLOR (I used “White”).
Hook: H (5.5mm), or whichever hook size is needed to achieve gauge.
Gauge: 20 CSC x 19 rows = 4″ square
You’ll Also Need: 10″ length of leather or suede craft cord (also called craft lace) for optional hanging loop.
Terms and Abbreviations:
ST/STS (stitch/stitches)
SL ST (slip stitch)
CH (chain)
CSC (crossed single crochet: Insert hook into stitch. Yarn UNDER, pull through; 2 loops on hook. Yarn over, pull through both loops.)
FLO (front loop only)
JOIN (Join with a SL ST to the top loops of the first ST of the round)
Notes:
(1) Pattern is worked in joined, unturned rounds. CSC stitches worked into FLO stack nice and straight on top of each other, which allows the seam to stay straight and clean. If you have trouble recognizing your first and last stitches, a stitch marker can be very helpful.
(2) CH1s at the beginning of rounds do not count as stitches in final stitch counts.
(3) Unless otherwise noted, the first stitch of each round is always worked into the same ST as the CH1.
(4) The slip stitched stripes (worked in white in my sample) are labeled in the pattern as “STRIPE #1”, “STRIPE #2”, etc. They are not a part of the main round count because when we work these stripes after a round of CSC, the top loops of those CSCs remain exposed so that when we move on to the next round of CSC, we are still working into the loops from the previous round of CSC. (This will probably make more sense once you’ve gotten started!)
(5) Instructional photos are located below their respective written instructions.
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PATTERN
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To begin: With BASE COLOR, CH37.
Round 1: CSC in 2nd CH from hook and in each remaining CH. Working around to the opposite side of the starting chain, CSC in each CH across. You have now worked in both sides of each chain. Join. (72)
Rounds 2-3: CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)
Pull up a large loop so that your work doesn’t unravel, then remove your hook.
STRIPE #1: Pull STRIPE COLOR through top loops of first ST of the round. Do not chain; instead, immediately insert hook into next stitch (1st image) and work a SL ST (2nd image). Continue to SL ST in each ST around (3rd image). Fasten off without joining (4th image). (71)
Notice how the top loops from the previous BASE COLOR round are still visible (1st image); that’s where you’ll work the next round as we continue on (2nd image).
Rounds 4-8: With BASE COLOR, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)
STRIPE #2: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1.
Rounds 9-13: With BASE COLOR, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)
STRIPE #3: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1.
Rounds 14-18: With BASE COLOR, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)
STRIPE #4: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1.
Rounds 19-23: With BASE COLOR, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)
STRIPE #5: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1.
Rounds 24-28: With BASE COLOR, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)
STRIPE #6: Follow instructions from STRIPE #1.
Rounds 29-32: With BASE COLOR, CH1 (do not turn). CSC in FLO of each ST around. Join. (72)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming the top of the potholder closed (but don’t do it yet). Weave in all other BASE COLOR ends.
Here’s what you should have so far:
FINISHING THE STRIPES
To finish the stripes and create an almost seamless look, we’ll use our yarn needle to manually create two more “stitches” to close the gap between the first and last slip stitch of each stripe. Here’s how to do it:
1. With seam area visible, notice two locations (holes) as marked on the image. Hole #1 is halfway between the first and last slip stitches of the STRIPE round; Hole #2 is where the top loops of the first slip stitch come together (the bottom of the sideways “V”). Keep these locations in mind.
2. Thread finishing tail through yarn needle, and make a loop. Hold it in place with your thumb.
3. Insert yarn needle down between the two loops of the last SL ST (same place the tail is coming from) …
4. … and up through Hole #1, making sure it travels up through the loop you created.
5. Pull it through; you’ll see our first manually-created stitch form.
6. Repeat the process: Make a loop, insert needle down into the same place the tail is emerging from, and up through Hole #2 this time. Pull through. Image shows what it should look like once you’ve finished both stitches.
7. We need the finishing tail on the inside of our project, so insert yarn needle into the first slip stitch of the round …
8. … and pull it tight.
9. Turn inside out and tie 3 or 4 knots with the yarn tails, then trim the excess yarn. (This will be hidden inside the project, but if you would rather weave in your ends, go ahead.)
SEAMING THE POTHOLDER
Once all ends except the finishing tail are taken care of, thread finishing tail through yarn needle and whip stitch the top closed (or use your own chosen seaming method). Here’s how to whip stitch:
Line up the top edges of the potholder. Insert your needle up through the inner loop of the first stitch on one edge. Then insert your needle up through the inner loop of the corresponding stitch on the other edge. Work back and forth between edges, repeating the process until you reach the end.
To finish off, tie a knot. Run your yarn needle into the nearest opening and underneath about half a dozen stitches (going between the two layers of fabric). Pull yarn through, then reinsert yarn needle back into the exit point and repeat. Do this a few times, then cut yarn and pull fabric to make the tip of the yarn disappear completely into the potholder.
ADDING A HANGING LOOP (OPTIONAL)
Cut a 10″ length of leather or suede cord (mine was 1/8″ thick) and use a yarn needle to run it through the potholder near the corner. Tie a knot at the top and trim as necessary.
That’s it!
I hope you enjoyed this tutorial. If you’re sharing your project on social media, be sure to tag me @yarnandchai.design!